![]() but you can never assume anything.Ĭonnectors look good, grounds are tight, resistor values good, clean the switches and pots, then look to the caps and test them as well (discharge first with a high value 10W or so resistor and do it twice) then test the caps. ![]() I would think the service folks tested the tubes. Start with the obvious little things first specially since it's been in for service. Weird things can happen even if one of the speaker posts are loose. Be sure the caps are discharged, 400V on a cap can get REAL painful or worse. Be sure your speaker posts are tight specially the grounds, and check all resistor values and check the star ground and be SURE it's tight and look for any oxidation on the ground points. Any ideas?įirst thing I'd be checking is all the usual suspects. I thought I had a bad tube but after changing it the bias started this rapid fluctuation again. I had a rushing sound over the weekend and it changed or went away when I would wiggle V2. It worked fine for several months and now is back to where it was before. The first time they replaced a bias control on V2 the 12au7, then the second time a relay on the power input. I have also had a problem with the same amp causing the woofer in my speaker to randomly move in and out without music being played. Now it does this with bias pots all the way down and no signal after about 2 minutes of being turned on. I lowered the bias from 240mv to 220mv and the problem stoppd for a while. One amp has had a problem of occasionally, when driven fairly hard the bias starts to fluctuate rapidly on all 4 tubes. I have a pair of Thor TPA 60 mono block amps. ![]() I am new here and can't find anything related to my problem in the archives. ![]()
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